Jul 8, 2010

The Gatherling Place

“E komo mai. Nou ka hale” 
Welcome, our house is yours.
Our trip to Hawaii would not be complete without accomplishing the main reason for us to travel there. It has been too many years since the last time we visited Brenda and Eric. Arriving in Oahu, we were met by thee Prince and Princess of Millilani (and surrounding areas), providing us a warm Aloha and beautiful Leis. This beautiful tradition is one that we cherish when returning to the islands. Leis are symbols of love, healing and respect or of a spiritual connection.

Our visit started in grand style! We had dinner at Chais Island Bistro which was wonderful…from the extravagant appetizers, artistic designed entrées and the most decadent desserts…all accompanied by traditional "okole maluna” spirits. To enrich the already perfect ambiance, we were serenaded by the renowned local recording artist Robi Kahakalau, Sistah Robi. As our evening came to a close, we left downtown Honolulu knowing that this was not just a welcome back celebration, but a homecoming.
Hale Nicolai sits on the edge of a verdant valley with views that extend all the way to Diamond Head. Recent renovations have brought a casual elegance and warm Hawaiian feeling to their home. Afternoons were often spent sitting out on the Lanai. As we shared our lost stories (talking story), with Longboards and Margaritas in hand, we occassionally paused the conversation to watch the wild parrots fly across the valley below to their evening roosts. 
While we enjoyed many "hang loose" moments on the lanai visiting with our Hawaii Ohana, we also ventured out to some of our favorite spots:  Kailua Beach, Koolina lagoons, the Shrimp Farms in Waialua and looking for "honu" the ancient sea turtle on the beaches near Haleiwa. Michael also found a new food to fall in love with ... the malasadas from Leonard's bakery truck. Warm, soft, sweet dough balls that are made fresh to order. Good thing we don't have those available nearby!

We also made a special trip out to the Lyon Arboretum botanical garden which has a world renowned collection of more than 5,000 tropical plant species. But of even more significance, it is where our mother volunteered countless of hours preparing rare palm seeds for shipment around the world. Over the 20-year period that our parents lived in Hawaii, she donated many days The gardens are nestled deep in the Manoa Valley. The grounds are quite unique, beautiful and extremely lush with many miles of walking trails. We did our best to hike as many of them and see as much of the grounds as possible in one day. We did come across a number of strange engraved markings on a few of the large rocks. The markings, L.N. ♥ W.N., a strange combination of letters and symbols must have been put there during Hawaii’s colonization period, but no one knew for sure of their origin and significance. We stopped at a few viewpoints with magnificent views of the valley, reminded us just how beautiful, tropical and revered these islands truly are.



And capping our wonderful vacation... Captain Eric Nicolai commanded our Hawaiian Air flight back to the Bay Area!  We both felt quite proud of my "little brother", as it seems like it wasn't that long ago that we were just kids growing up...

We shall return soon...in the meantime,
'A' ohe loa i ka hana a ke aloha
Distance is ignored by love.


During our Hawaiian vacation, Sydney had her own petcation!  She had a blast at the Creekside Pet Resort. Daily walks around the neighborhood, jumping over all the benches and scampering along the river. And, oh my, the awesome suppers with extra carrots and chicken not to mention those pant pockets filled with good treats!  She's already looking forward to a return stay.


Mahalo nui loa and Aloha oe!

Jul 6, 2010

Volcanoes National Park

“Ua Mau Ke Ea O Kaaina I Ka Pono O Hawaii” 
(the constant wet rain gives life to the land 
and brings goodness change to Hawaii…Iz -Hawaii 78)

We now head to Volcanoes National Park, one of the few places in the world you can come face to face with an active volcano. 
Courtesy of Geothermal Education Office - Tiburon, CA
But first…big breakfast brah!!! Snuggled between Mauna Kea and Kohala Volcano in Hawaii’s scenic mountain heart, is Waimea. You gotta check out Hawaiian Style Café. Da loco moco is mean! If you’re not hungry, expect speedy service, can't have a meal where shoes and pants are optional, dislike eating “local” or require tablecloths and china…keep driving down the road! Only go when you have all morning to eat and an afternoon to sleep. "Ono" as they say here in Hawaii...really delicious!


As we drove the mauka route of the scenic Māmalahoa Highway, we were pampered with the quiet beauty of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country and the cooler temperatures of forested hillsides. The feel and look of “old Hawaii” is such a contrast to the heavily populated hustle and bustle of Kona…as if in another country…another era. And with our topless ride, we were able to breathe in the life of the land.

Our first scheduled detour was to the Waipio Valley, the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I. Known as the “Valley of the King," it is not only a special site of Hawaiian history and culture, but a place of dramatic tropical beauty. Waterfalls, taro fields and rivers permeate the fertile valley floor, while majestic cliffs surround and stand guard over this holy ground. Only residents are allowed to travel down the steep and narrow road entering the valley with their vehicles. Our options to enter the valley were limited; a guided van tour, horseback or a long and steep hike. On this trip we chose a brief stop at the overlook and a short walk down for a better view of the mouth of the valley, where the waters of the Waipio River cut across the black sand beach into the Pacific. When we re-visit this magical Garden of Eden, we will be sure to prepare for a full day of hiking and exploring. 


Our next stop…The Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive on the Hamakua coast. After a fresh tropical fruit smoothie break, we took the time to drive this splendid detour. Just 4 miles long, the drive takes you through an exotic jungle, as it winds along the coastal cliffs. In between the foliage of the towering trees and snakelike vines you will see steep ravines as they drop into the crashing surf of the ocean far below. Blend the brilliant blues of the clear sea, with the deep rainforest green, then add a few golden rays of that bright Hawaiian sun…you had to be there.


With only a brief reminder of “reality”… a gas stop in Hilo, we headed up to the quiet village of Volcano and the garden retreat waiting for us…the Hale Ohia Cottages. Selected by the editors of National Geographic Traveler magazine to feature in their “129 Hotels We Love” edition, you will realize at once why this property is so special. Seeing for the first time the main house and cottages is like stepping back in time to the 1930’s. The property is nestled in the midst of a lush fern forest with immaculate botanical gardens contributing to the overall tranquil ambience of the estate. Our cottage was the Ihilani, meaning heavenly splendor in Hawaiian. This little sanctuary offered us a warm and cozy nest during our stay. As our host, owner Michael Tuttle provided us Kentuckian hospitality all during our stay, his cat “Dixon” made sure we were not lacking for some loving company. And as an added plus, these lush grounds were only a mile away from the entrance of Volcanoes National Park.


Hawaii emerged from the sea millions of years ago…forged by the power of volcanoes. Witnessing the island’s continued evolution literally diminishes time as we know it…sorta like…experiencing the Grand Canyon for the first time or counting the endless strands of stars in a Wyoming night. Volcanoes National Park, a place where land is being formed everyday and life begins anew, is said to be Hawaii’s number one tourist attraction. Of the five volcanoes on the Big Island, three are active and you will find two of them in the park. Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984 and Kilauea, perhaps the world's most active volcano, has been continuously erupting since 1983. During our visit, the flow went underground, so we were not able to witness first-hand the streams of lava that slowly creep toward the sea, continually adding new shelves of shoreline to Hawaii. Check out this link showing a Kilauea lava flow. Video made by Volcanoechaser.


There is also a relatively new volcano, Loihi, located underwater off the southern coast of the Big Island. Erupting since 1996 and spawning an emerging seamount that may break the surface in about 250,000 years, a blink in the face of time, adding another island to the Hawaiian chain. As we passed through the park gates, we noticed this was not the typical National Park entry. Only a few cars were in line, versus the throngs of visitors awaiting entrance to any national park on the mainland. In fact the busiest time of day was in the early evening, when crowds begin to gather in hopes of seeing an eruption. Many were locals who come for the great mana, the spiritual power, that they believe is here.
The best observation area in the park is the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory and Jagger Museum. It sits right on the edge of the rim of Kilauea Caldera. The evening views of Halema’uma’u crater’s “red glow” can be quite incredible. The observatory is managed by the U.S. Geological Survey and the National Park Service and its purpose is to study the activity of Mauna Loa and Kilauea Volcanoes on a permanent basis. The numerous exhibits do an excellent job of explaining the history and behavior of Hawaiian volcanoes, while the working seismographs and webcams show you just how active they are. And the rangers conducting the free interpretive talks are quite knowledgeable, very informative, receptive to all questions and demonstrate a true passion and love toward their park…our reminder of the “old Ranger ways”.

The trailhead to the Sulphur Banks on the flanks of the Kilauea summit crater will lead you through what seems another planet. Volcanic gases, which are rotten egg stinky and hazardous to your health, spew out of ground vents along with groundwater steam. Through this fog of steam, we witnessed what seems to be a hostile environment, but flowering plants and native ferns flourish quite near each vent. 

A short drive from the main caldera, lies the crater Kilauea Iki (little Kilauea). This was once the scene of one of Hawaii’s most violent volcanic displays, the eruption of 1959.



The Kilauea Iki trail is a very diverse 4 mile hike descending 400 feet down the wall of the crater. Once you reach the eerie crater floor of hardened lava flows with the intermittent sulfur banks and vents still steaming from the ‘59’ eruption, you are reminded that you walk upon an unimaginable force of nature. 

As we climbed out from the crater floor, the trail took us through a rainforest engulfed in giant ferns and tree foliage. Along the way we encountered Kalij pheasant, Hawaiian honeycreepers and Black rats that stared at us as if we were made of cheese. Grunts of Feral pigs, heard within the darkness of the underbrush voiced their discomfort as we made our way up toward the crater rim.  We agreed that this was the best hike in the Park as it gave us a real close up view of the remnants of a volcanic eruption.
As we continued our loop back to the Kilauea Iki trailhead, we decided to make a short detour to tour The Thurston Lava Tube. The first part of the tube, which is not very long, is lit by low intensity lighting and most likely meant for those “other” tourists to experience the inside of a lava tube. Pools of water shimmer on the floor, while dangling tree roots decorate the ceiling. It was pretty cool and a lot bigger than we could have imagined. It took a lot of lava to create this tunnel. The second part of the tube has no lights...and very, very, very dark…as in “I can’t see X!@#.” We would have walked the whole 500 feet, but darn…we forgot to bring our flashlights. Thurston Lava Tube is nestled deep within this beautiful rainforest with a canopy of thick and healthy vines and branches that shade most of the trail. Quite a hidden oddity and a far different landscape than the crater floor that we just came from.

A drive to the end of Chain of Craters Road took us down to the Pacific where previous lava flows poured down the slopes creating dramatic ocean cliffs. The Holei Sea Arch was once a lava tube that became eroded by years of exposure to the pounding surf. 



Panau-nui Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Field consists of over 23,000 individual Hawaiian petroglyph images. The majority of the petroglyphs show a variety of human forms and animals, but we noticed all these holes...“dots” in the lava. Well these “dot” petroglyphs relate to a Hawaiian custom specific to this lava field. When a baby was born, the piko (umbilical cord) would be taken to this field, a hole would be made in the rock, the piko placed in the hole and then covered with a stone. If the piko was still there the next day, the child was said to have a long life. 

Here you can witness that every aspect of Hawaiian life is full of spirit… based on natural laws, with a great reverence for and an understanding of nature. The message was clear to us… Aloha is not a mental concept or a rule, but rather a way of living life. As we walked this hallowed ground and observed the ancient writings, you saw that the spirit of Aloha and the spirit of Hawaiian ancestors are a natural part of Hawaiian life. It is of our hope that it will not be lost to future generations and as we return over the course of our lifetime, will will continue to see the Hawaiian heritage honored

As we return to Kona to catch our flight, we stopped at Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park.The City of Refuge is hundreds of years old, but yet beautifully preserved. Here you will step back in time to a sanctuary of Hawaii’s past where traditional Hawaiian lifestyle is preserved. Ancient temples and ki’i (wooden images), carved game stones will whisper stories from the past. On this day day the park was a peaceful rest stop for us, as well as a beautiful safe haven for the wildlife living here.

Now imagine you have just broken a kapu (a law) or were a defeated warrior. In old Hawaii your penalty would be death. Your only option for survival was to elude being captured and reach the nearest pu‘uhonua or place of refuge. If you reached this sacred place, you would be saved. The spirit of the pu‘uhonua was respected by all. As we walked these sacred grounds, gazing upon the endangered sea turtles in the waters of the clear cove, we had a sense that the spirit of peace and forgiveness will continue to bless this special place.


The “plate lunches” of Hawaii, are the bargain meals of the Islands. This traditional Hawaiian plate lunch consists of 2 servings of rice, a serving of macaroni salad and features a “generous” serving of a hot entrée (roast pork or fried chicken…which make the Bla in BlaNics knees shake). The cost…a tad more than a Value Meal. As we headed back to Kona International Airport at Keahole, we stopped at a recommended eatery…The Big Pine Café. A big Aloha to Larry and Jeanne for turning us on to this place (if it is a reputed Spam eatery, Larry’s on it). The fried chicken plate was huge, four big, juicy pieces, blanketing a generous layer of fries and then lathered with brown gravy…oh, and a cup of slaw on the side. After I finished that lunch, the stent had to be steamed cleaned...and anticipated that Hawaiian Airlines would charge us for an "extra baggage fee."

Prior to returning our rental car and catching our flight to Oahu, we could not resist one more visit to where this latest adventure all began. Although visions of Hapuna Beach will linger for some time, even more importantly to us, is that this beautiful strand of white sand will forever be our key toward unlocking the vivid memories the Big Island and its embodiement of the spirit of Hawaii. The historical, cultural and spiritual value that is preserved here can only be described as priceless.

Jul 4, 2010

Paradise of the Pacific

“E Hoomau Maua Kealoha”…may our love last forever.


The lands of Hawaii have beckoned us for years and a visit to Hale Nicolai and a reunion with the Esona Ohana has been long overdue…so it was with much joy and anticipation that we finally boarded Hawaiian Airlines flight HA47 to Kona International Airport at Keahole



Welcome to Hawaii’s “Big Island”…the island of Adventure. The island of Hawaii is the youngest island in the Hawaiian chain, yet by far the biggest. This is the home of one of the world’s most active volcanoes - Kilauea, the tallest sea mountain in the world - Mauna Kea, the most massive mountain in the world - Mauna Loa, and the largest park in the state - Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. But we started our trip with a romantic getaway to one of the most beautiful beaches to grace a coastline… Hapuna Beach.



Due to an unfortunate 2-hour delay at Hertz-Rent-A-Car because of a lack of cars for the July 4th Holiday, we were able to secure a free upgrade. Hertz threw us a bone for the wait and provided us a brand new Mustang convertible. We felt liked we scored…that is, until we counted 30 of those same rides on the Hwy 19 between the airport and hotel…oh well, it was still unique and fun!


Located on the Kona-Kohala coast of the Big Island of Hawaii and frequently voted the best beach in the US, is a magical stretch of Hawaiian sand…Hapuna Beach. If you have ever had a dream of a pristine beach in Hawaii, Hapuna would be the first picture that would materialize. Crescent shaped, fine white sand, clear, warm turquoise water and with a calm ocean, perfect swimming conditions.


Our room accommodations were provided by the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. Nestled into the bluffs above the white sands of Hapuna Beach on the west and towered above by the majestic Mauna Kea on the east, this multi-terraced resort is situated on 1,839 oceanfront acres. The front desk upgraded our accomodations to a luxurious ocean view room that perfectly complimented and highlighted the surreal beauty and tranquility of the beautiful coastline. The staff must have looked at us, smiled, then whispered..."newlyweds".






Unofficial access to the 175 mile Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail can be found on the beach. The National Park Service indicates this trail is quite unique in that it focuses on the preservation of Hawaiian culture and heritage as well as promoting environmental stewardship and education, a path that joins the past to the present and the future. Although our short trek took us only to our sister resort, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, the lava rock trail traverses much further north, including through the Pu’ukohala Heiau National Historical Site.

This site is home to one of the largest restored heiau (temple) in Hawaii and is also now part of the National Park System. Built by Kamehameha the Great this massive stone temple was built without the use of mortar and it is believed that the lava rocks used to build the structure were passed hand-by-hand in a human chain some 25 miles away. And as you wander through these sacred grounds, you ask yourself, “How many places in America can you walk in the footsteps of a king?” 

Our "short" two days are now coming to an end and we now must bid a fond farewell to this beautiful beach. We leave with skin of bronze, souvenirs of sand hidden in those hard to get at crevices and the most vivid Kodak memories that will last into the after life. 

We will not easily forget the many hours spent on this precious sand. Staring at drifting puffs of clouds, with a brilliant blue canvas as a backdrop, slowly evaporate from the heat of the sun or gazing upon an endless carpet of sea glass, swelling with the pulse of the tide can easily bring one to a state of meditation usually reserved only for those “highly evolved” beings...banana slugs. 


One's life path should include these rest stops more often than not at all. We should all desire to experience these moments of reflection, creating new dreams and some vitamin E solar charging. The seldom used life gift of "just being" should be unwrapped more often. And although we yearn and say that we will return some day, we know that the world has far too many destinations yet to premiere for the eyes of these curious wayfarers...