Volcanoes National Park

“Ua Mau Ke Ea O Kaaina I Ka Pono O Hawaii” 

(the constant wet rain gives life to the land 
and brings goodness change to Hawaii…Iz -Hawaii 78)

We now head to Volcanoes National Park, one of the few places in the world you can come face to face with an active volcano. 

Courtesy of Geothermal Education Office - Tiburon, CA

But first…big breakfast brah!!! Snuggled between Mauna Kea and Kohala Volcano in Hawaii’s scenic mountain heart, is Waimea. You gotta check out Hawaiian Style Café. Da loco moco is mean! If you’re not hungry, expect speedy service, can't have a meal where shoes and pants are optional, dislike eating “local” or require tablecloths and china…keep driving down the road! Only go when you have all morning to eat and an afternoon to sleep. "Ono" as they say here in Hawaii...really delicious!

As we drove the mauka route of the scenic Māmalahoa Highway, we were pampered with the quiet beauty of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country and the cooler temperatures of forested hillsides. The feel and look of “old Hawaii” is such a contrast to the heavily populated hustle and bustle of Kona…as if in another country…another era. And with our topless ride, we were able to breathe in the life of the land.

Our first scheduled detour was to the Waipio Valley, the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I. Known as the “Valley of the King," it is not only a special site of Hawaiian history and culture, but a place of dramatic tropical beauty. Waterfalls, taro fields and rivers permeate the fertile valley floor, while majestic cliffs surround and stand guard over this holy ground. Only residents are allowed to travel down the steep and narrow road entering the valley with their vehicles. Our options to enter the valley were limited; a guided van tour, horseback or a long and steep hike. On this trip we chose a brief stop at the overlook and a short walk down for a better view of the mouth of the valley, where the waters of the Waipio River cut across the black sand beach into the Pacific. When we re-visit this magical Garden of Eden, we will be sure to prepare for a full day of hiking and exploring. 

Our next stop…The Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive on the Hamakua coast. After a fresh tropical fruit smoothie break, we took the time to drive this splendid detour. Just 4 miles long, the drive takes you through an exotic jungle, as it winds along the coastal cliffs. In between the foliage of the towering trees and snakelike vines you will see steep ravines as they drop into the crashing surf of the ocean far below. Blend the brilliant blues of the clear sea, with the deep rainforest green, then add a few golden rays of that bright Hawaiian sun…you had to be there.

With only a brief reminder of “reality”… a gas stop in Hilo, we headed up to the quiet village of Volcano and the garden retreat waiting for us…the Hale Ohia Cottages. Selected by the editors of National Geographic Traveler magazine to feature in their “129 Hotels We Love” edition, you will realize at once why this property is so special. Seeing for the first time the main house and cottages is like stepping back in time to the 1930’s. The property is nestled in the midst of a lush fern forest with immaculate botanical gardens contributing to the overall tranquil ambience of the estate. Our cottage was the Ihilani, meaning heavenly splendor in Hawaiian. This little sanctuary offered us a warm and cozy nest during our stay. As our host, owner Michael Tuttle provided us Kentuckian hospitality all during our stay, his cat “Dixon” made sure we were not lacking for some loving company. And as an added plus, these lush grounds were only a mile away from the entrance of Volcanoes National Park.

Hawaii emerged from the sea millions of years ago…forged by the power of volcanoes. Witnessing the island’s continued evolution literally diminishes time as we know it…sorta like…experiencing the Grand Canyon for the first time or counting the endless strands of stars in a Wyoming night. Volcanoes National Park, a place where land is being formed everyday and life begins anew, is said to be Hawaii’s number one tourist attraction. Of the five volcanoes on the Big Island, three are active and you will find two of them in the park. Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984 and Kilauea, perhaps the world's most active volcano, has been continuously erupting since 1983. During our visit, the flow went underground, so we were not able to witness first-hand the streams of lava that slowly creep toward the sea, continually adding new shelves of shoreline to Hawaii. Check out this link showing a Kilauea lava flow. Video made by Volcanoechaser.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNcXataE0YM

There is also a relatively new volcano, Loihi, located underwater off the southern coast of the Big Island. Erupting since 1996 and spawning an emerging seamount that may break the surface in about 250,000 years, a blink in the face of time, adding another island to the Hawaiian chain. As we passed through the park gates, we noticed this was not the typical National Park entry. Only a few cars were in line, versus the throngs of visitors awaiting entrance to any national park on the mainland. In fact the busiest time of day was in the early evening, when crowds begin to gather in hopes of seeing an eruption. Many were locals who come for the great mana, the spiritual power, that they believe is here.

The best observation area in the park is the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory and Jagger Museum. It sits right on the edge of the rim of Kilauea Caldera. The evening views of Halema’uma’u crater’s “red glow” can be quite incredible. The observatory is managed by the U.S. Geological Survey and the National Park Service and its purpose is to study the activity of Mauna Loa and Kilauea Volcanoes on a permanent basis. The numerous exhibits do an excellent job of explaining the history and behavior of Hawaiian volcanoes, while the working seismographs and webcams show you just how active they are. And the rangers conducting the free interpretive talks are quite knowledgeable, very informative, receptive to all questions and demonstrate a true passion and love toward their park…our reminder of the “old Ranger ways”.

The trailhead to the Sulphur Banks on the flanks of the Kilauea summit crater will lead you through what seems another planet. Volcanic gases, which are rotten egg stinky and hazardous to your health, spew out of ground vents along with groundwater steam. Through this fog of steam, we witnessed what seems to be a hostile environment, but flowering plants and native ferns flourish quite near each vent. 

A short drive from the main caldera, lies the crater Kilauea Iki (little Kilauea). This was once the scene of one of Hawaii’s most violent volcanic displays, the eruption of 1959.

The Kilauea Iki trail is a very diverse 4 mile hike descending 400 feet down the wall of the crater. Once you reach the eerie crater floor of hardened lava flows with the intermittent sulfur banks and vents still steaming from the ‘59’ eruption, you are reminded that you walk upon an unimaginable force of nature. 

As we climbed out from the crater floor, the trail took us through a rainforest engulfed in giant ferns and tree foliage. Along the way we encountered Kalij pheasant, Hawaiian honeycreepers and Black rats that stared at us as if we were made of cheese. Grunts of Feral pigs, heard within the darkness of the underbrush voiced their discomfort as we made our way up toward the crater rim.  We agreed that this was the best hike in the Park as it gave us a real close up view of the remnants of a volcanic eruption.

As we continued our loop back to the Kilauea Iki trailhead, we decided to make a short detour to tour The Thurston Lava Tube. The first part of the tube, which is not very long, is lit by low intensity lighting and most likely meant for those “other” tourists to experience the inside of a lava tube. Pools of water shimmer on the floor, while dangling tree roots decorate the ceiling. It was pretty cool and a lot bigger than we could have imagined. It took a lot of lava to create this tunnel. The second part of the tube has no lights...and very, very, very dark…as in “I can’t see X!@#.” We would have walked the whole 500 feet, but darn…we forgot to bring our flashlights. Thurston Lava Tube is nestled deep within this beautiful rainforest with a canopy of thick and healthy vines and branches that shade most of the trail. Quite a hidden oddity and a far different landscape than the crater floor that we just came from.

A drive to the end of Chain of Craters Road took us down to the Pacific where previous lava flows poured down the slopes creating dramatic ocean cliffs. The Holei Sea Arch was once a lava tube that became eroded by years of exposure to the pounding surf. 

Panau-nui Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Field consists of over 23,000 individual Hawaiian petroglyph images. The majority of the petroglyphs show a variety of human forms and animals, but we noticed all these holes...“dots” in the lava. Well these “dot” petroglyphs relate to a Hawaiian custom specific to this lava field. When a baby was born, the piko (umbilical cord) would be taken to this field, a hole would be made in the rock, the piko placed in the hole and then covered with a stone. If the piko was still there the next day, the child was said to have a long life. 

Here you can witness that every aspect of Hawaiian life is full of spirit… based on natural laws, with a great reverence for and an understanding of nature. The message was clear to us… Aloha is not a mental concept or a rule, but rather a way of living life. As we walked this hallowed ground and observed the ancient writings, you saw that the spirit of Aloha and the spirit of Hawaiian ancestors are a natural part of Hawaiian life. It is of our hope that it will not be lost to future generations and as we return over the course of our lifetime, will will continue to see the Hawaiian heritage honored

As we return to Kona to catch our flight, we stopped at Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park.The City of Refuge is hundreds of years old, but yet beautifully preserved. Here you will step back in time to a sanctuary of Hawaii’s past where traditional Hawaiian lifestyle is preserved. Ancient temples and ki’i (wooden images), carved game stones will whisper stories from the past. On this day day the park was a peaceful rest stop for us, as well as a beautiful safe haven for the wildlife living here.

Now imagine you have just broken a kapu (a law) or were a defeated warrior. In old Hawaii your penalty would be death. Your only option for survival was to elude being captured and reach the nearest pu‘uhonua or place of refuge. If you reached this sacred place, you would be saved. The spirit of the pu‘uhonua was respected by all. As we walked these sacred grounds, gazing upon the endangered sea turtles in the waters of the clear cove, we had a sense that the spirit of peace and forgiveness will continue to bless this special place.

The “plate lunches” of Hawaii, are the bargain meals of the Islands. This traditional Hawaiian plate lunch consists of 2 servings of rice, a serving of macaroni salad and features a “generous” serving of a hot entrée (roast pork or fried chicken…which make the Bla in BlaNics knees shake). The cost…a tad more than a Value Meal. As we headed back to Kona International Airport at Keahole, we stopped at a recommended eatery…The Big Pine Café. A big Aloha to Larry and Jeanne for turning us on to this place (if it is a reputed Spam eatery, Larry’s on it). The fried chicken plate was huge, four big, juicy pieces, blanketing a generous layer of fries and then lathered with brown gravy…oh, and a cup of slaw on the side. After I finished that lunch, the stent had to be steamed cleaned...and anticipated that Hawaiian Airlines would charge us for an "extra baggage fee."

Prior to returning our rental car and catching our flight to Oahu, we could not resist one more visit to where this latest adventure all began. Although visions of Hapuna Beach will linger for some time, even more importantly to us, is that this beautiful strand of white sand will forever be our key toward unlocking the vivid memories the Big Island and its embodiement of the spirit of Hawaii. The historical, cultural and spiritual value that is preserved here can only be described as priceless.